Are you ready for an unforgettable Balkan road trip? Our slow travel adventure took us from the coastal charm of Montenegro to the cultural heart of Bosnia & Herzegovina and along the jaw-dropping coastline of Croatia…all by car with a toddler in tow.
In this guide, we’ll break down how we planned it, where we stayed, what we learned, and why we believe anyone can pull off this epic journey.
Want to know what it’s like living in Montenegro? Check out our article on Living 6 Weeks in Kotor here!
Why We Chose a Balkan Road Trip
While living in Kotor, Montenegro, we realized just how close we were to a handful of bucket-list destinations. Rather than joining a pricey bus tour with limited stops, we opted to rent a car for maximum freedom, space (aka: room for our toddler’s gear), and spontaneity.
We drove from Montenegro to Bosnia and Herzegovina, then to Croatia, and back. It was manageable, affordable, and offered far more flexibility than any tour or bus schedule.
We like to consider ourselves “Eco Tourists”, and even though renting a car might not be the most “green” thing you could do, it made the most sense for us financially. That’s why we’re Eco Tourists on a Budget! Want to learn how you can become one too? Check out our guide on how NOT to wreck the planet here!
Balkan Road Trip Itinerary Overview
After hours of research, we mapped out a 4-day road trip covering:
- Kotor to Podgorica (bus)
- Podgorica to Mostar (by rental car)
- Mostar to Kravice Falls to Dubrovnik
- Dubrovnik to Herceg Novi to Perast to Kotor
We chose destinations for our Balkan road trip based on proximity, personal must-sees (hello, Kravice Falls!), and kid-friendly options.
Renting a Car in Montenegro for a Balkan Road Trip
We picked up our rental from Podgorica Airport. A few tips:
- Choose a company with good reviews even if it costs a few euros more.
- Confirm border crossing insurance and get a “green card” for car travel across countries.
- Use a smaller car for navigating narrow Balkan streets, but not so small you can’t breathe on long drives.
Required documents:
- Driver’s license
- Passport
- Credit card
- International Driver’s Permit (not mandatory, but recommended)
Day 1: Montenegro to Mostar (Driving into Bosnia)
Getting to Podgorica
We started our Balkan road trip with a bus ride from Kotor to Podgorica. It took about 3 hours, cost €9 per adult, and required paper tickets (tip: print them in advance!). Platform fees and confusion at the station are common, so arrive early.
Crossing into Bosnia
Once in our rental car, we drove 1.5 hours to the Bosnian border. Crossing took about 45 minutes but was easy and the officers were unexpectedly friendly! We had all our paperwork ready, but they barely glanced at it. Driving in the Balkans is pretty straightforward, but make sure you look up local laws before.
First Stop: Lunch & Leg Stretches
We stopped for lunch 20 minutes into Bosnia. The outdoor restaurant was cheap (€3 for 2 beers and a mountain of fries!) and next to a playground. The playground? Rusty. The beer? Cold.
It’s called balance.
Driving in Bosnia: What to Expect
The roads started smooth but quickly turned patchy and unpredictable. We saw cows in the road and had to slam the brakes more than once. Stay alert and don’t wander off the beaten path! Some areas still have unexploded landmines ?.
Where to Stay in Mostar
We booked a spacious 1-bedroom apartment with a pool for $40/night on Booking.com. The streets getting there were so narrow we had to reverse multiple times. We were out there making 10 point turns lookin like Austin Powers ?.
Worth it though: we had a washing machine (hallelujah!), a pool, and space to stretch.
Day 2: Exploring Mostar with Kids
Parking in Mostar
Parking is tough. We lucked out and found a small lot run by two friendly old men who charged us about €6 for two hours. Honestly we pulled down a driveway to reverse and continue our street parking search and they approached us asking if we were looking for parking. What are the chances?! Check out this very unsuspecting parking lot below.
If you’re visiting the city center, consider walking.
Stari Most (Old Bridge)
The iconic Ottoman-era bridge lives up to the hype. Towering over the bright-blue Neretva River, it’s a stunner. No jumpers while we were there (probably a good thing with a toddler watching!).
Street Art Galore
Mostar surprised us with its street art. Whole buildings are covered in vivid murals. Our daughter was fascinated, and so were we.
Part of a great Balkan roadtrip itinerary is leaving time to just wander. You’ll stumble upon great finds that Google won’t tell you about.
Food & Culture
Bosnian cuisine leans heavy on grilled meats, fresh veggies, and stews. Smoking is common…even indoors. One group lit up directly under a “No Smoking” sign while we ate. Our toddler didn’t appreciate the second-hand atmosphere.
We wrapped the day with highly-rated pizza from Cafe Pizzeria Porto. It lived up to the hype and filled our bellies after a long, hot day.
Day 3: Kravice Falls and Driving to Dubrovnik
Kravice Falls
About an hour from Mostar, Kravice Falls is a must-see. Entrance is €10, cash only. Prepare for lots of stairs down to the falls (some slippery). The falls are stunning, with restaurants and beach clubs at the bottom.
Heads up: the water is super cold. Refreshing, yes. But brrr.
Driving from Bosnia to Croatia: Border Crossing Tips
Google Maps led us to a restricted government crossing. Oops. We eventually found the right one (with help), waited behind a wedding party in full celebration mode (beers in hand!), and made it into Croatia without issue.
Dubrovnik to Kotor Coastal Drive
Driving into Croatia is like entering a travel brochure. Mountain tunnels, coastal cliffs, islands in every direction. A feast for the eyes.
Hidden Gem: Smokvina Beach
We detoured to a remote bay and discovered our private paradise. Heart-shaped rocks, crystal water, no one else in sight. We named it Heart Rock Beach (officially Smokvina Beach). Highly recommended.
Staying in Dubrovnik
We booked a cozy one-bedroom with laundry, kitchen, and a garden. Parking is nearly impossible here, so we left the car and walked everywhere. If Dubrovnik is out of your budget, consider staying nearby and visiting for the day.
Day 4: Lapad Beach to Kotor, Montenegro
Lapad Beach Morning
Lapad Beach is family-friendly with soft pebbles, calm water, and a giant inflatable water park. We paid €30 for two hours of play (life vests included). Beach clubs, cafes, and a bakery nearby made it a perfect last stop in Croatia.
Border Crossing into Montenegro
Border crossing throughout the Balkans was so much easier than I anticipated. There are two checkpoints at the Croatia/Montenegro border for some reason. Have your documents ready twice.
Wondering if it’s safe to travel to Montenegro? Check out our Safety Tips in Montenegro Guide Here!
Back in Montenegro: Herceg Novi & Perast
Herceg Novi
Super charming area, but tough for parking. We ended up laying on warm sidewalks by the water (a Montenegrin tradition!) and taking in the peaceful vibes of Boka Bay.
Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks
Perast doesn’t allow non-resident cars, but locals will help guide you. We paid €30 for parking that included a simple boat ride to the islet. Quick, cheap, and beautiful. The church and its views are definitely worth the trip.
Is a Balkan Road Trip with Kids Worth It?
100% yes. Our Balkan road trip was eye-opening, affordable, and absolutely doable with kids. From border crossings to swimming under waterfalls, it was packed with moments we’ll remember forever.
Border Crossing Tips for a Balkan Road Trip
Crossing borders in the Balkans is part of the adventure, and it helps to be prepared. Here’s what you need to know:
1. Have Your Documents Ready
- Valid passport (with at least 6 months left)
- Car rental agreement (with permission to cross borders)
- Green Card (international car insurance)
- Optional but recommended: International Driving Permit
2. Border Insurance
Some rental companies charge a flat fee for border crossings and provide a green card. Others charge per border. Always clarify this in advance, and keep that green card in your glovebox.
3. Be Patient
- Expect long lines, especially midday and on weekends.
- Some crossings have multiple booths. You may be checked by customs twice, even if the booths are close together.
- Keep snacks and water handy…especially if you’re traveling with kids.
4. Know the Road Rules
Each country has slightly different traffic laws. For example:
- Bosnia has strict speed enforcement (and few warning signs).
- Montenegro requires headlights on at all times.
- Croatia’s roads are more modern and well-marked.
5. Avoid GPS Confusion
- Some border crossings are for officials only. Make sure your GPS is set to a civilian crossing.
- Use Google Maps but cross-check with signs on the road.
- If in doubt, ask a local. They’re usually very helpful!
Final Thoughts
A year ago, if you told me I’d be road-tripping through the Balkans with a preschooler, I’d have laughed. But now? I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
If you’re planning your own Montenegro to Bosnia and Croatia road trip and have questions about renting a car, border crossings, or traveling the Balkans with kids, leave them in the comments below! I’m happy to help.
And if this guide helped you plan your adventure, save it for later or share it with someone who needs a little push to book the trip.
The Balkans might just surprise you.
